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Looking at my reflection, I can see myself in huge gilded pantaloons, seen only to me. Children sit in a water feature imitating mermaids, while in the next room rests a speaking vegetable in a exhibition box, beside a tall pile of bedding. This is the domain of the beloved author (1805-1875), one of the 1800s highly cherished storytellers. I find myself in Odense, on the island of the island of Fyn in the south of this Nordic country, to investigate the author's lasting influence in his native city 150 years after his passing, and to find a handful of enchanted tales of my own.

The Cultural Center: H.C. Andersen's House

HC Andersens Hus is the town's cultural center honoring the writer, including his original residence. A curator explains that in previous versions of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. The writer’s life was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were missing. For guests who visit this place looking for narrative enchantment, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of downtown Odense, rerouting a major road, made it possible to reconsider how the city’s most famous son could be celebrated. A prestigious architectural challenge granted Japanese firm Kengo Kuma and Associates the contract, with the curators’ new approach at the core of the layout. The unique wooden museum with connected spiral spaces debuted to much acclaim in 2021. “Our goal was to design an environment where we don’t talk about the author, but we talk like Andersen: with humour, sarcasm and outlook,” says the representative. The landscape design take this approach: “It’s a garden for explorers and for colossal creatures, it’s designed to create a feeling of diminutiveness,” he explains, a goal accomplished by clever planting, playing with verticality, scale and multiple meandering routes in a surprisingly compact space.

The Writer's Legacy

The author penned several autobiographies and regularly contradicted himself. The exhibition adopts this philosophy fully; frequently the perspectives of his acquaintances or excerpts of written messages are displayed to subtly challenge the his narrative of events. “The author is the guide, but he's untrustworthy,” explains the curator. The outcome is a compelling rapid journey of Andersen’s life and art, mental approaches and best-loved stories. This is provocative and fun, for grown-ups and youngsters, with a additional basement make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the youngest visitors.

Discovering the City

Back in the real world, the small city of Odense is charming, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes finished in vibrant hues. The Andersen legacy is ubiquitous: the street signals display the writer with his iconic top hat, brass footprints offer a free pedestrian route, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Every August this commitment peaks with the annual Andersen celebration, which celebrates the his influence through creativity, performance, stage shows and melodies.

During my visit, the week-long event had numerous performances, the majority were free. As I explore Odense, I meet painted stilt-walkers, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator telling stories. I listen to contemporary performances and observe an amazing nocturnal display with graceful performers lowering from the city building and dangling from a mechanical arm. Future activities this year are talks, hands-on activities and, broadening the storytelling legacy further than the writer, the city’s regular wonder event.

Every excellent enchanted locations deserve a castle, and this region features 123 castles and estates across the island

Cycling and Exploration

Similar to most of Denmark, bikes are the perfect means to travel around in the city and a “bike path” meanders through the urban core. Starting at Hotel Odeon, I cycle to the complimentary harbour-side swimming pool, then beyond the city for a route around the nearby islet, a tiny landmass linked by a road to the mainland. City residents have outdoor meals here after work, or appreciate a peaceful time catching fish, aquatic activities or taking a dip.

In the city, I dine at a local eatery, where the menu is inspired by the writer's motifs and tales. The poem the patriotic piece is highlighted when I visit, and manager Nils Palmqvist reads extracts, rendered in English, as he introduces the meal. This is a practice repeated often in my time in Odense, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it seems that storytelling is continuously available here.

Historic Estate Tours

Each wonderful fairytale destinations deserve a castle, and this region boasts numerous historic homes and estates throughout the region. Taking day trips from Odense, I visit Egeskov Palace, the continent's best-preserved moated palace. While much of it are accessible to the public, Egeskov is also the family home of the noble family and his spouse, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I contemplate if she would notice a pea through a stack of {mattresses